Trickster asked eight of this year’s ERKI designers: What is fashion, and what makes their collections unique? Check out their answers right here, and come see their creations on May 31st at Põhjala Tehas!
HELEN TAMBLA
Fashion is a medium that creatively speaks to me the most. Something I just happen to do best. A form of self-expression that is so everyday, yet says so much.
The main inspiration for my collection is Vladimir Tarasov's animated film “Pass”. It’s worth watching, I recommend it. I saw it as a child, and it had a big impact on me—I couldn’t figure out for a long time whether I had dreamed it or it was real.Also, "Mountain Pass" is very textural, almost like surface modeling, and largely driven by pushing my own creative limits.
MAIRO SEIRE
Fashion is a language without words.
As Rodrigo from my favorite soap opera likes to say: “Eres valiente!” (You are fearless). That’s exactly why my collection "MÄLO" is cool – it was created with no fear!
CRISTOPHER SINIVÄLI
Fashion is the art of wearing. Self-expression without words. A symbiosis between the body and what is worn, a dialogue between the wearer and the observer.
“EXO” is a fully ceramic wearable collection.The collection consists of several thousand ceramic modules, intricately assembled with parachute cords as a result of six months of work.Visually and in form, the ceramic collection is inspired by natural defense mechanisms, like exoskeletons. That’s where the name comes from: EXO.
ALLAN SUOMALAINEN
Fashion is a medium through which one can express emotions, interests, opinions, and everything else that comes to mind.
Because it’s not just a “cool collection,” "echoes of the steppe" carries a message worth remembering.
KÄTLIN KALMUS
Clothes that suit you.
"Fades Away" is special because of its flowing shape and delicate texture.
KRISTINA OJA
Fashion is a way to tell stories that not everyone has to understand — it’s enough if someone can recognize themselves in it.
My collection "teine" is unique because I didn’t wait for ideal conditions or for all the right tools or machines — I used what I had. And that was enough.
LINDA TEEMÄGI
For me, fashion is a combination of objects worn on and around the body, visually and conceptually. In some cases, it could even be called storytelling.
Estonian ethnography has often been interpreted into clothing, but to me, it’s usually too obvious and clunky. That phrase “inspired by Estonian ethnography” already makes me cringe because you know what’s coming. So my goal was to change that.It was important to me to translate old traditions into a modern language while keeping the focus on practicality and functionality.The collection “For the Female Snufkin” has a utilitarian look and a sometimes military feel, hiding symbols and meanings that aren’t immediately noticeable.For example, I used Seto-style sleeve slits for protection against the evil eye, the shape of a barn key on the collar and front fastening to represent a historical symbol of female authority, and a heart motif in a brooch and ironed scarf, which traditionally framed the face of a well-groomed woman.These layer-upon-layer, multi-wearable outfits of "Female Snufkin" are relevant both in the countryside and the city.
MIHHAIL ZAYTSEV
Fashion is my way of self-expression and a platform for experiments and creativity.
My collection "When Times Were Still Innocent" is unique because it’s the first big step in my growth.It gives me the opportunity to challenge myself, because creating a collection is definitely a major undertaking.