From high-end sportswear to Yeezy and back, Finnish designer Sasu Kauppi has spent more than a decade shaping and questioning the language of streetwear. Launching his label in 2011, he blended athletic silhouettes with a DIY edge long before “athleisure” went mainstream. Today, he moves between teaching at Aalto University, working on independent projects, and occasionally stepping behind the decks as a DJ. In this conversation, Kauppi reflects on the blurred lines between sport and fashion, the shifting meaning of subcultures, and why fashion still struggles to compete for attention in Finland.
You launched your label in 2011, a moment when streetwear was moving from niche to mainstream. What space did you see yourself filling back then?
Hi! Back in 2011, after graduating, my idea was to design sportswear inspired higher end fashion with a DIY twist. It was, for sure, a different time back then. The kind of aesthetic I was creating was still not super widely appreciated, but was beginning to be understood. You know, paying a bit more for something that could be considered sportswear (which is the wording I prefer) or streetwear, was still not for most people. But thankfully I got some sales. Those days my retailers were mainly smaller boutiques around Asia and a couple other locations globally. It suited me well.
Over a decade later, streetwear is everywhere, and arguably nowhere. Do you still feel it has cultural weight?
Definitely, I feel it’s probably even more important now than back in the day. But maybe we don’t need a word for it anymore. The lines are blurring and people are more comfortable wearing clothes outside of what has traditionally been considered suitable for a specific occasion.
Subcultures used to form in skate parks, clubs, or record shops. Now they’re more digital than physical. Do you think the idea of a “core” or a scene still holds meaning?
I think social media has changed the world so much that it won’t be the same. It’s more of a challenge for an individual, trying to fish those truly inspiring elements and details from a sea of everything. But in some sense I’m happy about this. Personally, I never related to a specific group or genre. I’ve always been inspired by, and created from, a mixture of resources. It's like putting things in a blender and not thinking too much, if this was the right thing to do at that time. That said, I do feel that there are still real scenes forming where people meet and exchange thought in real life, not only online.
Do you still hunt down vintage Santa Cruz tees?
Haha, recently I’ve been pretty much holding off on buying apparel. I mainly end up wearing samples from projects I’ve been working on. But if you have a good source for vintage SC, let me know!
Fashion and sports are in full collision - athletes are sitting front rows at shows, Olympic medals are served on LV platters. But has that translated into actual on-field design innovation?
When it comes to design, I tend to value the aesthetically pleasing side of things over the actual functional innovations (unless you’re able to justify both in harmony — that would be ideal), but I think this is exactly what they are trying to do right now. With varying results, I feel. Some are really clever, some are gimmicky (not the good kind, haha). But overall, it’s a good thing, a start of a long conversation. These are the kinds of projects I really look forward to.
We have to address the elephant in the room. You were part of the Yeezy design team until 2016. How do you reflect on that experience now - creatively, professionally, and personally?
I did work for them quite some years, until 2019 actually. Obviously, it was a big learning experience for me, that shaped me as a person and a designer. It probably made me more conscious of detail when it comes to designing stuff. Thankful to have had the opportunity.
Your work has always carried a distinctly Finnish sensibility, both in its precision and quiet boldness. How conscious is that link in your design language?
Thank you. I draw inspiration from everyday places and people and try to make the world a bit more fun and interesting. Along the way my home country works as an essential reference. I never plan on creating something traditionally very Finnish though.
It seems like Finns happily invest in designer objects but hesitate when it comes to fashion. Do you think that mindset is shifting at all?
Well, ten years ago I would’ve said "yes, this is definitely happening". But now, I don’t feel as positive about it. There are probably many explanations for this, but fashion just doesn’t seem to be rooted in our blood here.
Fashion is often linked to youth culture. Has your relationship to that space changed as you've gotten older?
I try to keep up with interesting new phenomena, talking to my students at Aalto University and attending events occasionally, but I don’t go out as much as I did ten years ago, so the new kids probably see me as a boomer now. I'm obviously still inspired by cultures of the past, but the kids seem to be inspired by some of the same stuff as me, when I was growing up, so it’s more of a nostalgia trip right now, haha. My daughter just started school, so maybe I will be informed and corrected once again.
You’ve moved between underground scenes, global hype, and now something more independent again. Do you feel more at home on the margins or in the spotlight?
I’m definitely more comfortable working in the background, and overall working hands-on on stuff myself. It’s sort of an “immediate response” kinda thing, so I can see what works and what doesn’t with minimal delay. I do, however, enjoy performing whenever I’m doing other creative stuff such as live modular synth performances, DJing, etcetera.
Interview by Kamila KučíkováPhotography by Silver Mikiver