Actress and DJ Henessi Schmidt shifts with her clothes — each change bringing a new feeling, a new rhythm to the day. Dressing up is her way of finding out who she is that day. Each outfit becomes a small reminder of the character she’s living as right now.
When did you realize that clothes matter?
On stage it’s so obvious that costume is a huge part of the character I’m playing. With the wrong costume I can’t catch the character, and the moment something in the costume changes, the whole character changes too. It’s just like that. I think because I also carry different characters in my life — country girl, businesswoman, fairy, rock fan, manor lady, and so on — my wardrobe is just as mixed. I hate when I don’t look how I feel, it’s difficult to get things done then!
Your earliest memories related to clothing?
I loved dress-ups. The first things that come to mind are running mart (an Estonian tradition) and Walpurgis nights, when I got to dress up as a witch. And I was thrifting with my mom for as long as I can remember.
Green Vintage Dress.
Bought from vintage store Fankadelik in Estonia.I have never worn it! I actually have many special items in my wardrobe that I have never been able to wear – or have maybe lacked to courage to stand out too much. One day, I will start arranging dress-code events where people have to wear the outfits that they can’t wear anywhere else.
How did you dress in high school and university? When did your current style start to take shape? What influenced it?
The other day, a friend asked me if I remember how, when I worked at Protest, he told me I should wear more dresses. That was 10 years ago. Now he says he mostly sees me in dresses and that it suits me so much better. I can’t even picture myself any other way now, always floating around in dresses. At that time, I really wore more leather leggings, rock shirts, and other “cool” stuff.
Vintage French Wedding Dress.
Bought it from Etsy for a photoshoot. Used it in a concert-play I directed for Mari Kalkun and redesigned it into a character named after her song “Kuldnaine”.
Why do some people know how to dress cool and others don’t? Where does style begin?Clothes as a form of communication?
For some, style is part of self-expression. Maybe it comes from my profession, but I feel like costume defines such a big part of the character and how I feel. That’s why I can’t decide the night before what I’ll wear in the morning. Every day is a new mood, and it echoes in my clothes. For some people, maybe that’s not important in defining themselves. Or maybe some just find it more important to blend into the crowd and are afraid to experiment or stand out. I wish I had even more courage to wear exactly what I feel like – often I turn things down a notch so I won’t be overdressed or too noticeable. I don’t even know why, because I love seeing people on the street with strong style who carry their own world with them.
Vintage Kimonos.
Most of them are bought from Fankadelik again. I have mostly worn them during my DJ sets, especially when they have taken place outdoors. And also during my summer hippie adventures to match the wind in my hair. I’ve realised I have too many of them, so I’ll probably sell half soon.
Why do you enjoy hunting for special pieces?
Looking for special music, a unique travel destination, an unknown book, and a one-of-a-kind vintage piece – there’s a kind of magic in it. And I like the self-reflection that comes with shopping. When I go searching again after half a year, I also find out how I’ve changed – who’s the character I’m now shopping for. And that I discover through the costume. Often I look in my shopping bag and think: oh wow, so this is the woman I am right now!
Sage Cowboy.
I think I discovered my passion for a country look when I was working on a project in Ireland. Discovered their Dubarry brand and fell in love with their quality and looks. Here I am wearing a blouse from them – everything else is from different second-hand (also or vintage drifts as most of my Dubarry outfits were in Tallinn! Hat is from a proper US Cowboy brand – can’t remember the brand but my dad gave it to me, saying it suits me better!
Clothes as memory keepers?
Usually I let go of my past selves, and that includes clothes that don’t fit my character anymore. The only ones I’ve really kept are DJ costumes from about 10 years ago when we started the Pätikiisud project with my girlfriends. Those handmade glitter Scooter tank tops, leopard print unitards, latex pants, silver and pink safety vests, sheer bodysuits, and Adidas tracksuits are still around and remind me of really fun times. And when we still occasionally play music together, I can wear some of them again!
Romantic pirate.
Silk blouse and woollen west bought from my favourite vintage store Miss Vintage. Fell in love with different vests last winter and really appreciate silk as a material. Pants are actually from an old brand called Seppälä, I bought them 15 years ago - haven’t found a more better cut and style in all those years! And the tulle-tail is tailor-made from Etsy for a photoshoot I had in Ireland. Also wearing the tulle-tailskirt a lot on DJ sets!
Clothes you miss and wish you still had?
I’ve learned from my losses – if I find something special now (and if possible), I buy several! That’s why I have three of my favorite swimsuits, two of one DJ dress, and other pieces doubled up. But I really miss a pair of perfectly cut trousers I once bought from H&M, and a couple of coats that just disappeared over the years. As for the things that simply broke, I’ve kept them in my closet waiting to take to a tailor who could make me new ones based on them!
Woollen Capes.
Maybe it’s a romantic thing, maybe a fairy thing, but I really like capes. I think I own five or more woollen capes. One of my favourites is this red one I bought from an Irish handcraft store. Others are bought from vintage stores again. Here also wearing traditions Estonian kirivöö which was hand made by an old lady from Rakvere. My friends actually gave me a kirivöö workshop as a birthday present – have been postponing it until I have a full month to dedicate myself to making one myself!
Your everyday outfit — what matters most in it?
A friend made me realize that clothes should be ironed. Since I barely have time for that, my favorite pieces get worn rarely. Usually I throw on something that doesn’t wrinkle and doesn’t give away the fact I had only two minutes to get ready. I dream of a life where I’d have mornings to properly pick a costume and iron it. Then maybe those more special finds would get more wear too. Otherwise, I spend a lot of time at my farm — the fancier clothes are stored in Tallinn, and I don’t get to them often. So most days it’s Crocs, work pants, and an old sweater!
Upcycled Princess Dresses.
Have been wearing this on different DJ sets again. Found this from Etsy by an artist who makes upcycled outfits. Found these fancy gumboots from a drift store.
Whose style has caught your eye in Estonia and abroad, and why?
I don’t even know if I’ve ever followed fashion — more like a sense, an era. I love fairy-tale, romantic, pirate, Little House on the Prairie kinds of vibes. But I also have moods where I like to be a cool businesswoman. But that all comes from within, not from what someone else is wearing.
DJ outfit.
Discovered leather as my new favourite last spring. This has been my main DJ outfit for playing world music. Bought it for a premiere outfit for Smilers Documentary, inspired by all the foxy song by Hendrik Sal-Saller. I don’t really wear a lot of accessories – I have my two silver rings for my two thumbs that I often wear and now also a bronze necklace by an Italian designer, that’s it. Oh, and a very fancy ring from my great grandmother!