Gadeplan is a cool natural wine spot in the centre of Helsinki - just a couple of months old but already full of hmm, funkiness?
Trickster spoke to the founders of the place, Urho Kuusela, Saska Saveljeff, and Atte Heiskanen, about work, play, and everything in between. Photography by Silver Mikiver.
Your previous occupation and how did you end up opening a bar?
Urho: I studied environmental and food economics, and in between I did “a bit of everything”, from working in a vineyard in New Zealand to random jobs around Helsinki. A lot of what I am is defined by the fact that I have grown up in these neighbourhoods. I’ve been searching for my foothold in this city and finally feel like I have found it through Gadeplan.
Saska: My background is in business analytics and strategy consulting. I’m the guy asking, “Great idea, now how do we make it work?” Someone has to keep an eye on the numbers while the rest of the room is busy debating aromas and vision.
Atte: I’ve spent years in fashion. Running shows, producing events, and even steering a couple of Finnish clothing brands. What stuck with me from fashion is the energy of creating something that people not only use but feel. That translated pretty seamlessly to wine: both are about taste, aesthetics, and community.
Which actually came first: your love for natural wine or your wish to open a bar?
The desire to do something on our own has been present for years in each of us. However, I’d say we had more experience with natural wines than running a bar at the time of opening, which I believe remains the case even today.
How did you guys end up opening a bar?
We were regulars first. Always curious, always exploring what’s new, and somewhere in that, we started wondering: “What if we did this our way?” It wasn’t about opening a bar “the right way” or “the Helsinki way.” We just followed what inspired us. One day, we were still casually talking about it; the next, we were signing a loan and realising it was happening.
So, how has it been?
Exciting. Wildly educational. Sometimes complicated, but in a way that feels rewarding, because we genuinely care about the subject. And the community reception? Overwhelmingly warm. Old friends, new friends, other professionals… it feels like we accidentally built a hub for people we like.
What did your friends think of you opening a natural wine bar in Helsinki?
You’d have to ask them. We’re not sure anyone believed we were serious until the doors opened.
And how many bottles of wine were “accidentally” taste-tested before opening night?
The lack of an alcohol licence kept us in line so that we did not spend all of our company money, but to be honest, Urho’s wine reserves were thoroughly demolished.
Have you ever served a wine so funky that even you questioned your life choices?
We’ve definitely had moments of nervous sweat, handing someone a glass we know is going to surprise them. But we love keeping things non-snobby; you don’t need to be an expert to enjoy what we serve. Funky or not, there’s always something for everyone.
If Helsinki’s winter were a wine, what would it taste like? (And would you decant it?)
Unpredictable. Some years snow, some years slush. It would definitely be a red: long maceration, dark and brooding, like the months themselves. And yes, we’d decant it, you need time to settle into Helsinki’s winter before you can enjoy it.
What’s the weirdest food you think could pair well with some of your wines? (Reindeer jerky? Karelian pie? Mämmi?)
- Mämmi. We had actually discussed doing it around Easter. It divides people. Most people’s opinions are based on childhood trauma but just like with wine, your taste evolves. Mämmi deserves a second chance.
True or false: the more unpronounceable the grape, the better the wine.
True. 100%
What do you say to someone who asks for “just a glass of Merlot”?
We invite them to be adventurous. There’s always something unexpected that ends up tasting even better.
If your bar had a theme song, what would it be?
Anna Hanski – Kotiviini no explanation needed.
How many conversations per night involve explaining that “yes, this wine is supposed to taste like barnyard and joy”?
At least once a day. We’ve stopped counting
What’s your go-to move when a customer tries to swirl a pét-nat like it’s a Burgundy?
Everyone has their style. Even Urho swirls a pét-nat sometimes, just for the drama. It’s not that serious.
If you could put any Finnish celebrity on your wine label, who would it be?
Jari Litmanen, The Pirlo of Finland.
If your wine bar were a person, what would its dating app bio say? (Swipe right for unfiltered love?)
Young, fun, and spontaneous. Looking for someone who appreciates skin contact ;)
Building a place, how long did it take, and were there any surprises along the way?
- Two months of intense work. Honestly, the surprise was how doable it felt once we started. The interior design by our friends Paavo Pakkanen and Aaron Vartiainen gave us a clear plan, so we could just roll up our sleeves and get to work with some help from professionals, of course.
The biggest challenges so far?
Actually, finding the right space. We needed one that matched both our vision and the feeling we wanted to create, and it required time and lots of visits to available places.
Plans for next season?
More pop-ups. More events. We love sharing the space with people who have ideas and the drive to pull them off. And something cool is coming to our downstairs area soon… but that’s all we can say for now.